Alto Adige + Lugana Part II
Exploring two of Italy’s most magical regions.
Part of my fascination with Alto Adige is its interesting intersection between Alpine and Mediterranean climates and its commitment to tradition, yet its forward-looking experimentation. A truly magical place. Take a look at my last column for an introduction to this fascinating wine region.
Here’s a few more great Alto Adige wineries to visit and look for their wines at your favorite wine shop.
Abbazia di Novacella is one of the oldest active wineries in the world. With 880 years of winemaking history, Abbazia di Novacella is an active monastery, museum, school, convention center and winery; however, it only started selling wines about 100 years ago. While Abbazia de Novacella has a long history of tradition, it is also known for its innovation and experimentation with different grape varieties.
- Sylvaner 2021 – notes of white flower, lemon, mango with great acidity (look for the first sparkling Sylvaner soon!)
- Kerner 2021 (a cross between Riesling and Trollinger) – this super racy white has lemon-lime, green apple, floral and lots of mineral notes
- Gruner 2021 – a grape more widely found in Austria, this lean white has apple, pineapple and spicy ginger notes
- Orchestra Insolitus 2021 (the Orchestra line is dedicated to innovation and experimentation) – this field blend of Sylvaner, Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Kerner and Gewurztraminer has a fresh, floral nose with lemon-lime notes and a hint of salinity
- Preaepositus Pinot Noir 2018 – notes of cherry, strawberry, earth, leather and menthol
- Praepositus Lagrein 2021 – fresh, fruity black plum and blackberry jam notes with cinnamon and pepper on the finish
Girlan Kellerei Cantina, founded in 1923 in a historic farmstead, is one of the oldest cooperatives and focuses on both historical grape varieties like Vernatsch, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero and international grape varieties to create wines with character.
- Pinot Grigio 2021 – one of the best Pinot Grigios I tasted on the trip with white flower and almond aromas and bright, fresh apple and pear notes with a lemon cream finish
- Flora Sauvignon 2020 – lemon, apple, tangerine and herbal notes with a waxy mouthfeel
- Trattmann Pinot Noir Riserva 2018 – lush cherry and strawberry fruit with a hint of menthol and perfume
- Vigna Ganger Pinot Noir Riserva 2017 – luscious, ripe strawberry with smoky, unami notes
Lugana Wine Region
Not far away near Verona is the small wine region of Lugana, located along the southern banks of Lake Garda, which focuses primarily on the indigenous white grape Turbiana. These whites are tough to find in the United States, so I was glad to visit some of the top wineries.
Cascina Maddalena, a fourth-generation wine family with a 4-hectare estate vineyard, exudes personality and charm. With beautiful estate wines, a farmhouse offering local and traditional cuisine, and a backdrop of Lake Garda and the majesty of Monte Baldo, the winery was the perfect first stop in Lugana. Many thanks to our host Elisa who could not have been more charming and delightful.
- Leonardo Metodo Classico 2017 – this sparkling wine of Turbiana has tangerine and orange notes with a creamy mouthfeel, like a creamsicle
- Capotesta 2021 – lime pith, tangerine and floral notes with a hint of salinity on the finish
- Clay 2018 – a wine only made in the best vintages (yes, I brought a bottle home!), it has tangerine, clementine and lime citrus notes with nice acidity and minerality
- Rosato Rosanora 2021 – made from the Marzemino grape, this pretty pink wine has cotton candy on the nose and strawberry Jolly Rancher, orange citrus and creamy notes on the palate
Montale is a fourth-generation winery run by three brothers, Claudio, Roberto and Valentino Girelli who have built a modern, sustainability focused winery. Sustainable practices include using rice straw for insulation, solar panels for power, and left over grape pulps for fertilizer.
- Primessenz Classico Brut 2018 – made from Turbiana, these bubbles have lavender on the nose with tangerine, clementine and creamy lemon notes
- Montunale 2021 –ruby red grapefruit, orange, herbal and wet stone notes
- Orestilla 2019 – a richer white with notes of lemon curd, orange marmalade, ruby red grapefruit, anise and almond
Denise Clarke is an avid wine enthusiast who loves sharing and teaching people about wine. She is a Certified Wine Educator, Certified Sommelier, WSET Advanced graduate and an expert on Texas wine. Owner of Denise Clarke PR, she currently represents Texas Fine Wine and the Texas Department of Agriculture’s Wine Marketing Program. She has lived in Austin for more than 30 years and when she is not swirling and sipping wine, she can be found on her bike, climbing every hill she can find.
Follow Denise on IG at @deniseclarkeTX for more wine recommendations.
