Explore Jemez Springs, Abiquiu and Ghost Ranch
Talking about Ghost Ranch, Georgia O’Keeffe said, “It is not a country of light on things, it is a country of things in light.” It’s quite surreal to step into such a majestic, beautiful, and wise space. Our spirits and souls need moments like this in these times.
Paul Fogg, Executive Director of Ghost Ranch
From Albuquerque we headed to one of the most magical small towns in New Mexico, Jemez Springs, for Day Three of our sojourn. The vistas along the drive are incredible, the hot springs have been attracting visitors since the 1800s, and the ancient history of the native Americans goes back thousands of years. It’s a stop I always include when I visit New Mexico.
Day Four was a day to check off one of the places on my bucket list – the famed Ghost Ranch, home to one of the most well-known and revered American artists – Georgia O’Keeffe, and it did not disappoint.
I fell in love with New Mexico the first time I visited Santa Fe more than 29 years ago and have been returning as many times as possible ever since. More than a destination, New Mexico evokes a feeling that speaks to your soul. Although it’s impossible to experience all of the things the state has to offer, as soon as my COVID vaccination was in effect, I took off for 10 days to show a friend the ways in which New Mexico enchants me. Our tour has been divided into 5 segments. If you missed it, check out the first two days of our trip when we explored Albuquerque.
Day Three: Jemez Springs
The little over an hour drive from Albuquerque to Jemez Springs takes you through some of the most spectacular scenery you will ever encounter so leave time to pull off the road to take photos and take in the views. Jemez Springs is a little piece of paradise off the beaten path and definitely has an old hippie yet historical vibe. Unplug and “soak in the wonder” as the town’s slogan advises.
Home of many hot springs you can choose to hike and enjoy the waterfalls and natural hot springs or visit one of the commercial hot spring pools, spas or bathhouses. All are reasonably priced.
I always enjoy an hour soaking in the four pools at Jemez Hot Springs ($25), or a half hour soak ($18) followed by a 30-minute massage ($65) at the Jemez Springs Bathhouse.
There are several art galleries and shops to explore in town and not to be missed is the Jemez Monument and Historic site which includes stone ruins of a 500-year-old Indian village and remnants of the San Jose de Jemez Mission church dating back around 1621. One of the most memorable events of my life was attending “light among the ruins” held in December with the site completely covered in candlelit farolitos.
Take the Jemez Mountain Scenic Byway and wind your way past Valles Caldera National Park, home to one of only six super volcanoes in the world. Continue on Highway 4, winding through dense forest and changing elevations toward Los Alamos for one of the most scenic drives you will ever experience. If time permits it is worth visiting the Los Alamos History museum to learn about the Manhattan Project and the development of nuclear weapons.
Arrive in Abiquiu just in time for a lovely dinner al fresco and a restful night at the Abiquiu Inn.
Day Four: Abiquiu and Ghost Ranch
If you’re a fan of Georgia O’Keeffe, you’re probably familiar with Ghost Ranch where she painted many of her most famous works and spent her happiest and final days. Ghost Ranch was on my bucket list as I wanted to see and experience the place and the landscapes that had inspired such wonderful art and photography, but reservations were difficult to make prior to the pandemic. You must make reservations well in advance for the tours, although you can enjoy hikes on the property and walk the labyrinth with a day pass. The ranch hosts numerous retreats and workshops throughout the year for those who want a longer stay.
I highly recommend both the landscape tour and the landscape trail ride — especially if you’re lucky enough to schedule it at sunset. Also, don’t miss the opportunity to walk the labyrinth — it is a magical spot, free to all and the setting is spectacular. You can definitely imagine O’Keeffe being drawn to this most enchanting and mesmerizing place. I guarantee you will never look at one of her paintings again in the same way.
Leave Ghost Ranch for the 1 ½ hour scenic drive to Taos. Again, the scenery is the star. Take a Detour to see Plaza Blanca where O’Keeffe painted some of her most famous works and leave time to stop at the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, the second highest bridge in the United States with spectacular 360 views.
Up Next: Taos
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